Italian-born Giuseppe D’Aniello was recently named ‘The Best Sommelier, UK 2023’ by the UK Sommelier Association. His 10 years’ experience in the industry includes a period as head sommelier at London hotel The Lanesborough before joining The London Edition and Berners Tavern, where he is director of wine.
I still remember the boring, high-yield Cabernet Franc that characterised the grape’s presence on the market just a decade ago. This grape variety was largely unfamiliar to consumers, and typically used in small percentages to complete a blend of better known international grapes. It is one of the grapes that was underestimated in the past, for sure – but is now becoming fashionable. And that is something to be thankful for!
Inevitably, Cabernet Franc has been overshadowed by the more famous Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes in Bordeaux, where it is added into many blends to amplify a wine’s freshness and tannins. But it is the star of the show when vinified alone, as in the Loire appellations of Chinon or Saumur. You’ll also come across varietal examples from the US and Italy; and you’ll even find it made into icewine in Canada! These myriad expressions are what makes the Cabernet Franc grape so fascinating to me.
Perfume & power
In the last few years, Cabernet Franc producers have started to focus more on quality rather than quantity, leading to a significant shift in styles. It can be elegant and fresh, showing lovely red fruit aromas, when made in cool-climate areas
