From Bisschopswijn to Christmas Eve pink Champagne, Stuart Walton imbibes the history of celebratory Advent drinks.
Although the season of Advent, which extends over three-quarters of December, was traditionally a time of penitence for the adept in Christian history, it was not entirely bereft of moments to celebrate. The feast day of St-Nicholas falls in the first week and, in the northern European countries, has always been observed with merry abandon. Nothing succeeds in sweeping the spirits into a ferment at a moment of festivity then preparing for it the night before. Sinterklaas gets going in earnest on the night of the 5th, when presents are exchanged, children are pelted with sweets at the street parades, and hot wine is taken.
Bisschopswijn is the Dutch version of German glühwein, a red wine punch flavoured with orange and lemon slices, sweetened with sugar and/or honey, and aromatized with the standby winter spices of cinnamon and cloves, perhaps star-anise. It passed into English usage as Bishop (the bowl of Smoking Bishop that the reformed Mr Scrooge promises Bob Cratchit on Christmas morning), although English tradition was already well-equipped with recipes for such warming festive potions. Their spice range was often more extensive—encompassing nutmeg, mace, allspice and ginger as well – and the red wine was boosted with port. We have had occasion to deplore mulled wine in this space before, so we may be forgiven for passing swiftly on.
Advent on the house
Arriving one December 5 in Brussels with
This Article was originally published on World of Fine Wine
