Modern London food was born in the kitchens of the city’s grandest hotels. When Auguste Escoffier, father of modern French cuisine, arrived at The Savoy in 1890 he set in motion a culinary transformation that, small stutters over the years aside (London’s post-war reputation for dismal grub was well-earned), continues to this day.
Much has changed since. Escoffier brought French culinary technique and hospitality to London, but today’s hotel food scene is far more cosmopolitan. Wagyu beef served shabu-shabu style in the shadow of Marble Arch; arroz de marisco overlooking the redeveloped Battersea Power Station; slow-cooked lamb pie and cask ale in elegant Highgate; some of the world’s best cocktails at a dizzying variety of bars, from the classic to the bracingly contemporary. If you want it, chances are you can get it in one of London’s hotels.
I was born and have lived most of my life in London. In that time, I’ve toasted many milestones in hotels—most recently, my mum’s 80th birthday at The Ritz. The dress code, “Gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie,” harks back to Escoffier’s era. Elsewhere, though, nearly everything has changed.
Art’otel London Battersea Power Station, Powered by Radisson Hotels
1 Electric Blvd., Nine Elms
+44 333 400 6152
For decades, Londoners looked up at the decaying remnants of Battersea Power Station; now they can marvel at its glimmering renewal while staying at Art’otel or, even better, dining at JOIA, the top-floor restaurant. Portuguese Chef Henrique Sá
