Few people know that Japan makes fine wine from grapes, and fewer still know that it essentially has an indigenous grape to call its own. Koshu is the offspring of a long-forgotten vitis vinifera grape and an Asian grape. The crossing happened hundreds of (perhaps more than 1000) years ago, after grapes made their way along the Silk Road through China and then to Japan. The grape found its home in the Yamanashi Prefecture in the foothills of Mount Fuji, and it has been there ever since, where some Japanese wineries have been operating uninterrupted since the late 1800s. Koshu is a large, pink-skinned grape that is traditionally grown on large pergola-style vines that spread radially across large areas, resulting in vineyards that look more like forests than vineyards, especially in the winter, when the vine arms make a spiderweb tracery against the sky.
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