Matt Taylor-Gross. Matt Taylor-Gross
These starchy sliders are a popular beachside snack in Mumbai. In this vada pav recipe adapted from one served at the late chef Floyd Cardoz’s now-shuttered New York City restaurant, Paowalla, fluffy Goan-style white rolls are filled with a crispy fried potato patty, sweet and hot chutneys, and a garlicky chile-coconut condiment.
Flavorful chutneys are an essential component of Indian cuisine, far from a mere condiment. Cardoz was particularly masterful in how he used homemade chutneys to amplify the flavor of any dish. Three distinct chutneys complement our take on his crispy vada pav—a fresh mint-cilantro version; a crunchy “dry chutney” of toasted garlic, peanuts, and coconut; and a sweet and tangy tamarind chutney laced with cumin and red chile powder.
Yield: 12 Time: 2 hours 8 medium yellow potatoes (4 lb.) ½ cup chopped cilantro 2 Tbsp. mustard oil 2 tsp. cumin seeds 2 tsp. mustard seeds 1½ tsp. ground turmeric, divided 1 tsp. ground coriander Pinch asafoetida (hing) 12 curry leaves 4–6 green bird’s eye chiles, thinly sliced 1 small onion, finely chopped (1 cup) Kosher salt 3 cups chickpea flour 1 tsp. baking soda Vegetable oil, for frying 12 small, soft white rolls, <a href="https://www.saveur.com/goan-sandwich-rolls-recipe/"homemade or store-bought Mint chutney, tamarind chutney,