Amêijoas at Pinóquio (Clay Williams). Amêijoas at Pinóquio (Clay Williams)
Elemental and unpretentious, Portuguese cooking is born from homes, farms, and fishermen. At its best, it tastes of the sun, olive oil, onions, and ocean. In summer and fall, Lisbon’s markets brim with figs that taste of honey and peaches dense with juice. In winter, downtown praças smell of roasting chestnuts. And in June, sardines sizzle along narrow streets to honor Lisbon’s patron saint, António.
Chances are, you (or someone you know) has visited Lisbon in recent years. Unprecedented numbers have descended on the capital city in the last decade—and, like the architecture and demographics, the food scene is shifting. The delicious silver lining: A cohort of young chefs has emerged, determined to protect the recipes they grew up eating while also pushing things forward—seemingly enjoying the ride. Their food, better than any of the “new” cooking I sampled while living in Lisbon as a pastry chef 15 years ago, is expressive, compelling, and singular.
My guide to Lisbon—my mother’s hometown and a city I’ve returned to all my life—includes the standbys that (blessedly) remain intact today, plus new spots exemplifying the changes afoot. The list runs from day to night to show how Portuguese eat and live. If it’s possible to understand a country by peering through a kitchen door, then I hope with this list of restaurants and dishes you’ll recognize the heart of Lisbon—one devoted to family, tradition, beauty, and impractically long gatherings. Wherever you find
