San Sebastián may be the only city on earth whose key sights include man-made mountains of canapés, seafood skewers, and creamy croquetas—finger food as far as the eye can see. I’m talking about pintxos, the elaborate miniature dishes that have long played protagonist in this idyllic coastal city’s tourist scene.
Pintxos are a Basque tradition, and they can be as simple as a skewer of canned tuna and a pickled pepper or as involved as a perfectly portioned seared foie gras served over warm apple compote. Some are dessert: It would be a travesty to leave San Sebastián without trying La Viña’s viral “burnt” cheesecake.
Pintxos represent a century of culinary evolution in this corner of the Basque Country, and in my 14 years living here and writing about food, I’ve come to think of them as a way of life. Stopping at a bar for a snack and a glass of wine is a daily ritual for locals—myself among them.
Simon Bajada (Artisan Books) Simon Bajada (Artisan Books)
The beauty of San Sebastián’s pintxo scene is that it takes well to a greatest-hits roundup: Virtually every bar here has a signature dish locals devour before hitting up the next watering hole. To that end, what follows is an edible roadmap that will take you from the La Concha Beach promenade to the charming old town and across the river to residential Gros, where I live. Be sure to pace
