THANKS TO A NEW WAVE OF PRODUCERS, CHABLIS IS ONCE AGAIN THE WINE OF THE TIMES
by Wanda Mann
Chardonnay is often the gateway grape for burgeoning white-wine drinkers—and once their palates arrive at Chablis, their admiration only deepens as they discover the variety’s capacity for terroir-driven vibrancy. But as consumers chase new trends, could the region’s reputation as an Old World classic lead them to overlook it? Hopefully not: If they look a little closer, they’ll see a renaissance in Bourgogne’s northernmost appellation as a new generation reimagines Chablis, bringing fresh ideas to the table without sacrificing quality. Today, 25% of the region’s producers are under 40, and women are playing a more prominent role in the industry, from the vineyard to the cellar; in fact, 30% of Chablis’ domaines are owned or co-owned by women.
One of those women is Marine Descombe, a fifth-generation vintner who assumed leadership of her family’s estate, Famille Descombe, in the 2010s. Ask her what distinguishes Chablis from other 100% Chardonnay expressions and she’ll tell you that “the wines of Chablis are characterized by their purity, their crispness, and their minerality. The cool climate and the Kimmeridgian soil of Chablis give Chardonnay a special and singular grain. The freshness, minerality, and pep in [these] wines make them the purest expression of Chardonnay without artifice.” As such, she adds, they’re “perfectly adapted to the expectations of the new generation.”
Chablis encompasses roughly 14,500 acres of vineyards set among 20 villages and hamlets on both sides
This Article was originally published on The SOMM Journal
