Tapas, pinchos or pintxos (as it is written in Rioja Alavesa and the rest of the Basque Country) come in various forms and sizes. But regardless of the wording, everyone agrees that they are small appetisers served alongside a drink.
Understanding this is important. Locals usually have pinchos between 12.30pm and 2.30pm, before going home for lunch, or between 8pm and 9.30pm, just before dinner. Go for pinchos at 7pm and you might be faced with an empty counter instead of the colourful array of snacks you expected.
Size does matter, so be suspicious of bars with lots of oversize pinchos – quantity usually means lower quality. Also bear in mind that a bar with quality pinchos doesn’t necessarily serve wines of equal quality. While many bodegas offer tastings with some appetisers, finding wine bars outside Logroño to sample Rioja’s diverse, terroir-driven, quality wines remains a challenge.
If you’re hungry, order raciones: cooked-to-order platters that may range from charcuterie to fried calamari. When a full ración is too large, try a media ración, which is half the quantity. Or, for something a bit more substantial, a menú del día makes a great lunch option on weekdays. Costing less than €25, it usually includes three courses and wine.
In this article, we begin in Logroño before heading west.
Marqués de Vallejo 14, Logroño
Just before the pandemic, sommelier Oleg Buyalo moved from London to Logroño to open Roots, an independent wine bar that quickly gained a reputation for its
