Véronique Sanders, Château Haut-Bailly, Bordeaux.
Andrew Jefford’s October issue cover story, ‘The problem with Bordeaux, and how to fix it’, prompted a flurry of engaged and often passionate responses. Here we publish an edited selection, including the view from one of Bordeaux’s leading cru classé estates.
Dear Andrew,
In your article you pointed out that, for you, a great Bordeaux fine wine ‘may be the most obvious, unoriginal and unhip “favourite wine” in existence, but at its best it’s also the most subtle, refined and complex red wine of all’.
About 473 years ago, the Valladolid Controversy pitted those who claimed that Native Americans had souls against those who disagreed. The recurring debates surrounding ‘the Bordeaux crisis’ are often no less fiery or radical, and I like the way you nailed it.
Do we have a soul? Are we about to die, if not already dead? Are we still the very best grands vins of the world, carrying the name of the first and only global worldwide wine brand: Bordeaux? Or are we definitely done?
Herein lies the paradox, though, and here’s my question to you: how can a wine devoid of character, originality and spirit be at the same time the most subtle, refined and complex of all the world’s great wines? Isn’t subtlety a character trait? Isn’t it the refinement of a grand vin that underpins its originality? Isn’t its complexity a testament to its spirit?
You have known Bordeaux intimately for the past 30 years, dear Andrew,
