Passing Clouds marches to its own beat

Cameron (left) and Graeme Leith in the Passing Clouds barrel room. Passing Clouds Wines

Passing Clouds has always struck a chord with me, partly because I grew up not far from Bendigo and the region’s gutsy reds were among the first wines I discovered, but also because it always seemed to march to the beat of its own drum.

Now, celebrating its 50th anniversary, Passing Clouds is increasingly focused on the Macedon Ranges where its winery is located.

The name was a touch whimsical, too, in a similar way to Lake’s Folly. It took a philosophical attitude to the dry and often droughty climate of the Bendigo region.

Now, celebrating its 50th anniversary, Passing Clouds is increasingly focused on the Macedon Ranges where its winery is located, although it still makes several Bendigo wines from its Kingower vineyard in the Bendigo region. Predictably, these are the warmer-climate varieties shiraz, viognier and cabernet sauvignon, while grapes for chardonnay, pinot noir and sparkling wine are grown in Macedon. Co-founder Graeme Leith’s son Cameron and Cameron’s wife Marion now run the business, which re-located to Musk in the Macedon Ranges in 2010.

As they tell it, Cameron arrived at Musk to an already established chardonnay and pinot noir vineyard planted by Graeme in 1998. The property now has an architect-designed cellar door and dining room offering lunches, extensive gardens and a railway platform.

“The property and vineyard are now run according to regenerative agricultural practices,” says Cameron.

“This holistic method of farming means