Haut-Brion holds a hallowed place not only in today’s luxury wine market and wine history but also for the people who study terroir identity, authenticity, and, of course, branding. Its wines captured the imagination of 17th-century England, where they became synonymous with luxury, status, and innovation. Arnaud III de Pontac, Haut-Brion’s visionary owner, revolutionised how wine was marketed, creating a name synonymous with quality and exclusivity. He even opened an exclusive tavern in London known as Pontack’s Head. Largely due to his astute entrepreneurial skills, in 1660, King Charles II ordered dozens of bottle of “Haubriono” wine for his cellar. In 1663, Samuel Pepys provided a tasting note, stating that he “drank a sort of French wine, called Ho Bryan, that hath a good and most particular taste that I never met with.”
Yet, as revealed in an intriguing observation by the philosopher John Locke, this celebrated history is not without its complexities. Locke’s writings uncover a fascinating story of blending practices and market strategies that challenge modern notions of terroir and authenticity. Haut-Brion’s history, rich with innovation and artifice, invites us to reconsider how we define the origins of luxury wine.
Drinking Haut-Brion became emblematic of high status, but also of England’s dependence on France for wine. For that reason, the First Duke of Shaftesbury, who had fallen out with King Charles II, sent someone to Haut-Brion to investigate in 1677. The perceived massive trade imbalance with France had stirred up much public controversy, debates in Parliament, and ire
