Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart
Finding morels at the farmers market is like winning the lottery. One morning you’ll spot them, and the next they’re gone. Some years they don’t make an appearance at all, while others they’re around for weeks. That’s because these fussy, rare mushrooms, which are prized for their smoky earthiness, can’t be cultivated: They’re picked in forests between April and July and sprout only under certain climatic conditions. The good news is, you can substitute any edible mushroom in recipes that call for morels.
When shopping for wild mushrooms, look for ones that are dry and unbruised. Darker morels have more flavor than lighter ones. Don’t be daunted by the price per pound; mushrooms are mostly air, so a few ounces will go far. To prevent molding, store them in a brown paper bag in the fridge (the crisper drawer with the humidity turned off is best), and plan to eat them within a couple of days, lest they get slimy or shriveled. If the stems are too chewy for your taste (shiitake stems are notoriously tough), freeze them along with any trimmings and add them to your next batch of beef or vegetable stock.
When I’m cooking for my family, I love to keep things simple. These days, that means plenty of crusty bread (grilled on my little superintendent-approved electric grill)
