Over the past few years, New York City’s cocktail scene has become a bit… extra. On any given night, drinkers can sip a Martini while doing a caviar bump off of a mannequin hand at Martiny’s; drink an Orange Julius-inspired cocktail from a hollowed-out, flash-frozen orange at Shinji’s; have a Vegemite-infused beverage behind at doughnut shop at Ra Ra Rhino; or even indulge in a provocative Cigarette Martini in Tigre’s gold-accented ‘70s-themed lounge. Don’t bother searching — there’s no clear unifying theme to these over-the-top drinks, except for the fact that they’re all embracing NYC’s chaotic new tilt toward maximalist experiences.
New York’s post-pandemic bar landscape was quick to make up for lost time, with a rapid rise of avant-garde presentations, offbeat flavor combinations, and luxurious garnishes. Now, the trend is seeping into restaurant culture and even playing out on cocktail menus on the fine-dining stage. Even at Tatiana — a spot The New York Times has dubbed the No. 1 restaurant in NYC for two years running — guests can dine under floating clouds that radiate blue light while eating a cosmic brownie and slinging back artisanal Jell-O shots.
High-end restaurants historically feature impressive cocktail lists, but now ever more spots complement their creative dishes with equally compelling drinks that flaunt unexpected ingredients and presentations. In this maximalist era — and in New York in particular — where tableside service and heaps of caviar feel commonplace, how can beverage programs stand out without crossing the line into gimmicky territory?