Buzzing about biodiversity
James Button
Up high on the west side of the Trentino valley, one of Ferrari Trento’s organic vineyards I visited in April had been home to a handful of beehives – until a bear wandered down from the steep wooded slopes above and smashed them all up in search of honey. Today, the replacement hives are protected by a solar-powered electric fence: those bees are an important part of the site’s biodiversity. All of Ferrari’s estate vineyards have been certified organic since 2017. The company also holds ‘Biodiversity Friend’ certification, issued by the Worldwide Biodiversity Association.
In addition to its own holdings, Ferrari buys grapes from 600 grower families in the region, many of whom work to organic principles but are not certified. Chardonnay specialists they may be, but Ferrari’s predominantly Pinot Noir Giulio Ferrari Rosé (2008, £216.87 Spirits24) is off-the-charts good. One of Italy’s finest sparkling rosés, it channels Burgundian elegance. The Perlé range, meanwhile, is a great starting point for fizz aficionados. Perlé Bianco Riserva (£37.45 Vinvm) is a 100% Chardonnay extra brut with seven years on its lees. It’s intense and juicy, while the mid-palate is incredibly sapid and saline, ending with exotic hints of mango, spices and peach, along with some customary brioche notes.
Lenz Moser: Benchmarking drinking pleasure
Ines Salpico
It would have been easy for Laurenz (Lenz) Maria Moser V to sit back, relax and enjoy the wealth and recognition that his earlier projects – not least the successful management
