Pfalz producer Frank John (seated) with wife Gerlinde, son Sebastian and daughter Dorothea (poster). Sekt, but the serious version
Sylvia Wu
Sekt – Germany’s term for sparkling wine – has long held a reputation as a bulk-produced, easy-drinking category. Though this may be true for the vast majority, the real interest lies in the proportion (said by the German Sekt trade association to be 1.7%) regarded as ‘serious’ Sekt, made using the traditional, bottle-fermented method. I embarked on a journey during harvest 2023 to explore. The following are a few favourites.
In Rheingau, Barth’s Ultra Brut Nature 2015, made with Pinot Noir, achieved a fantastic balance between freshness and a maturing, complex palate. From Rheinhessen, the Raumland, Reserve Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014 puts on a show of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris – toasty lemon sorbet and creamy pastry, dusted with ginger and sweet spices, nutty with plenty of drive.
Pfalz biodynamic producer Eymann’s Cuvée No420 Rosé Brut 2020 boasts great structure and lovely red fruit depth on the back palate. Equally impressive is the No420 Extra Brut 2020, shining with vibrant citrus fruits and a mineral, elegant mouthfeel. From another Demeter-certified family producer in Pfalz, Frank John’s Riesling Brut Nature 2018 showcases the true potential of Germany’s signature grape as a sparkler – no sulphur dioxide added, plus 41 months on lees, leads to a polished, saline palate, extremely rich in umami with nutty depth and a rounded texture.
Hail, Severan!
Tina Gellie
With the tagline
