Federico GambettaAltos Las Hormigas – The quest to reveal terroir
Ines Salpico
It can’t be easy to be the winemaker of a project spearheaded by Alberto Antonini and Pedro Parra. This big responsibility has, for the past four years, rested on the shoulders of the enthusiastic Federico Gambetta, who seems enduringly motivated by the expectations surrounding Altos Las Hormigas. He was in London recently to present the latest and upcoming releases, and discuss, quite candidly, how the wines are a work in progress – steps on a road to strip Malbec of artifice and convey an ever-purer expression of terroir. As we tasted through wines from the 2020, 2021 and 2022 vintages, the evolution towards expressiveness and drinkability was clear – especially in the unoaked Jardín de Hormigas Meteora Malbec 2021 (£37.69-£39.95 Hedonism, NY Wines, Shelved Wine) and the barrel sample of the flagship Jardín de Hormigas Los Amantes Malbec 2022 (2021, £82.95 NY Wines). Drinkability is also the hallmark of the project’s dangerously fresh Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Clasica 2023 (£12.49-£14 Alexander Hadleigh, Grape & Grind, Hay Wines, Shelved Wine, Theatre of Wine), a red that’s perfect for chilling in summer.
A spectrum of rosés
Amy Wislocki
Research commissioned by UK retailer Marks & Spencer has revealed that twice as many shoppers opt for paler, Provence-hued rosés over darker styles. And yes of course Provençal rosé can be delicious. But so can rosés of many other shades, as evidenced at the Fine Rosé Day organised by Decanter contributor
