Champagne Collery emphasises dosage as a stylistic choice, opting for a “seasoning”-inspired process rather than an invisible dosage. Even in the wine trade, dosage can be a difficult subject. Historically, Champagnes had been packed with sugar. A century ago, 100 grams of residual sugar per litre was not uncommon, counterbalancing any greenness from the cool region and meeting tastes in the US and Russia. However, the pendulum has recently swung back. Dryness is the new trend, with most cuvées sitting below 10g/l. As consumers also turn towards authenticity, low intervention and health-conscious drinking, discussing sugar additions can be tricky territory. Champagne Collery, however, is reclaiming the narrative. Indeed, the grand cru specialist from Aÿ is making the case that dosage is not Champagne’s dirty secret, but rather a vital tool in crafting fine wines. It forms a key part of the house’s process and, the winemaking team believes, deserves open discussion. “Dosage taste is not about how sweet it feels, but what range of aromas is put forward depending on the sugar level,” explains Romain Levecque, director of Champagne Collery. Rather than masking any flavours in the Champagne, he likens the process to “seasoning”. Although many producers aspire to an invisible dosage, at Collery it is employed to emphasise the style and add nuance. The liqueur de dosage is therefore crafted with more than just sweetness in mind. The sugar itself is rectified, concentrated grape must, naturally complementing the final cuvée. It is blended with wine aged in ex-Sauternes
This Article was originally published on The Drink Business - Fine Wine
