Cyprus has its share of modernist glass and concrete box wineries. The most dramatic is the newly opened Marathatra, literally knife-edged architecture perched precariously on a knife-edged ridge. Counterpointing these creations are decidedly less grand designs that have organically sprouted out of “mom and pop” family operations. What unites all are the mountain locations that often share spectacular views of 400+-year-old abandoned terraces on steep slopes opposite and, sometimes, below.
Also uniting them is a recent movement intent on recapturing Cyprus’s distinctive wine heritage, central to which are its long-lost native grape varieties.
Around 50 years ago, Cyprus consciously walked away from its local grapes and 6,000-year-old winemaking traditions, toward “international-style” New World varietal wines, based around French grape varieties, cool fermentation, and French oak barrels. A whole winemaking generation effectively lost contact with its vinous roots and Cyprus’s unique identity.
Orestis Tsiakkas sums it up, “We didn’t know where to plant or how to make wine out of these totally new ‘old’ native grapes. Yainnoudi, Maratheftiko, Xynisteri were always there, but were not taken seriously. But the results of experimentation were so good. And so now we are learning, relearning, rediscovering …”
Leading the charge is a 14-strong growers association called WineCore (Wineries of Cyprus Own-Rooted Evolution), focused on defining, promoting, and elevating Cyprus’s unique local varieties.
Here’s what they’re coming up with.
Xynesteri and Promara: Ancient Cyprus whites
Cyprus’s two main white grapes, Xynisteri and Promara, are thick-skinned, highly textured, and low on acid. All tricky
This Article was originally published on World of Fine Wine
