A little over a decade ago, we looked at a special tasting of Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier, held to celebrate its 40th anniversary (see WFW 39, pp.58–63). Now, we can repeat the exercise, and more, for the 50th. I say, “a little over,” as the original timing was Covid-affected, as so much has been. Fortunately, Tim Kirk and his family did not abandon their plans. They just kept rescheduling—it turned out to be third time lucky.
Why is it worth looking at this wine? Put simply, Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier sits with the very finest wines produced in Australia. For me, it’s one of our four greatest reds, alongside Penfold’s Grange, Henschke’s Hill of Grace, and Cullen’s Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon. Several are certainly snapping at their heels—Brokenwood’s Graveyard, the top Pinot Noir from Bass Phillip and Bindi, and Wynn’s John Riddoch. There are others, too, all of which would no doubt feel aggrieved to have missed the cut.
Clonakilla is the leading winery in the Canberra region, as it always has been, making a number of superb wines in addition to its Shiraz/Viognier. The Kirk family are regional pioneers, and Tim Kirk is a supremely talented winemaker.
Briefly, to recap for those not overly familiar with Canberra or its wines, this small city is Australia’s capital. After federation in 1901, the location for the site of the new capital was finally decided in 1909. Prior to that, this was home to local indigenous people (canberry meant meeting place in their dialect) and
This Article was originally published on World of Fine Wine
