For everyday drinking, Bordeaux has long been overshadowed by other regions in France and elsewhere in the wine world. But just why has it fallen by the wayside?
There’s the complexity of the labels and appellations, ranging from “Bordeaux” to dozens of more place-specific subregions, some of them world-famous; the challenge of knowing the difference between Left Bank and Right Bank wines (Cabernet Sauvignon-based versus Merlot-based); the feeling that Bordeaux is your parents’ or grandparents’ wine; and the fact that red Bordeaux almost demands a few years or more of bottle age.
On the flip side, Bordeaux offers some excellent wine values. There are oceans of relatively inexpensive Bordeaux lined up on wine-store shelves — or perhaps “rivers” of wine is a more apt description as Bordeaux is largely defined by the Garonne, Gironde, and Dordogne rivers that are the lifeblood of the region.
Give me a dozen under-$30 Bordeaux and the same number of inexpensive California Cabs, Merlots or blends, and I almost guarantee you that I’ll find many of the Bordeaux more complex and interesting.
Moreover, when it comes to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, Bordeaux is the O.G., a region that, unlike so many New World producers, has been growing and making wine from these varieties for hundreds of years.
All that said, finding budget-priced Bordeaux bottles that stand out can be a challenge. Many are released too young and can be harsh on the palate — full of tannins and oak flavors that obscure the