Relaxing at La Ardosa in Madrid, a popular haunt for locals and tourists alike since its foundation in 1892.
It’s an iconic image straight out of a Hemingway novel: a sleepy bar on a Sunday afternoon, the floor littered with peanut shells; barrels with wooden spigots jostle for space above the bar. Short glasses – filled with ice, olives and an orange slice – hold one of Spain’s signature elixirs: vermouth, or as it’s known here, vermut.
Spain’s vermouth has evolved alongside the nation, tracing its journey from international pariah during the Franco era (1939-1975) to the hub of culinary innovation and effortless cool that it is today. Once dismissed as the drink of grandparents, symbol of an era of political turmoil and economic hardship, it has undergone a renaissance in recent years, becoming a mainstay of hipsters and pensioners alike. Now, vermut is synonymous with those outdoor-terraza, laid-back afternoons of the sort that everyone loves about Spain.
El vermut is more than just a drink, it’s a way of life. And there’s no better example of the Spanish approach to life than la hora del vermut (‘vermouth hour’).
A uniquely Spanish tradition
The Spanish love their bars, and la hora del vermut is a much-loved weekend tradition that offers an excuse to enjoy them. It’s a chance to slow down and spend time with family and friends over a glass of the good stuff before heading to lunch.
The concept of having a drink and a bite is not