As we wound our way through the villages of Burgundy to taste the 2023s, the region’s winemakers seemed weary. The 2023 vintage, with its generous volumes, was tiring in its own way; but these vrais vignerons were also recovering from the 2024 season. High disease pressure, with warm conditions and twice as much rain as normal, resulted in record-breakingly low yields – and we spoke to producers who lost as much as 85% of their crop, with volumes especially devastating in the Côte de Nuits. Many were delighted to have the year behind them, and ready for a break from the winery.
While this report is of course about 2023, it’s important to acknowledge the minuscule quantity of wine that was made in 2024. Next year, expect to see extremely limited availability, smaller ranges with fewer cuvées and strict allocations – meaning 2023, with plentiful yields, offers an important opportunity both to stock up and secure potential allocations next year. Weary though producers might have been, they were happy to revisit 2023. The vintage is a rarity, offering both quantity and quality, with some stunning wines, and many that will be approachable early.
Above: the 2023 cellar (left) and 2024 cellar (right) at Olivier Bernstein highlighted the meagre volumes made in 2024. Top of page: in the cellar at Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy
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