Photography by Katherine Kimball
In a city synonymous with Creole and Cajun cuisine, Italian food too often gets left out of the conversation. But look close, and you’ll see traces of Italy everywhere in New Orleans—in the classic muffuletta sandwich, in the breadcrumb-stuffed artichokes on holiday tables, and in business names like Delmonico and Monteleone.
Droves of Sicilian immigrants arrived in the Crescent City around the turn of the 20th century, when the city’s restaurant culture was just finding its footing. They planted, foraged, fished, sold, and cooked much of the food locals ate. But just as these immigrants introduced locals to Italian foods and flavors, so too was New Orleans influencing the way Italians cooked: at home and in restaurants, Italian American chefs began adding Gulf Coast ingredients and Creole spices to their traditional fare, creating bold dishes that would go on to become New Orleans classics. Soon the Creole Italian restaurant—the kind of family joint with striped awnings and neon signs, where tables were piled high with fried fish and spaghetti—was born.
In New Orleans, the past often seems preserved under cloudy glass. With fourth-generation Italians at their helm, many storied institutions have remained little changed for decades, which is part of their charm. But these old-school checkered-tablecloth restaurants haven’t had it easy: Survivors have weathered hurricanes and a pandemic, gentrification and crumbling infrastructure. Yet they somehow continue to churn out delicious conundrums like “spaghetti Bordelaise,” BBQ shrimp (more on that later), and Creole-style “red gravy” (tomato
