Aligoté, often incorrectly regarded as the subtler iteration of Chardonnay, is a cross of Pinot Noir and the more obscure Gouais Blanc. With its historical roots tracing back to the 17th century, this variety flourished throughout Burgundy, including in the famed slopes of Corton, Musigny (blanc) and Chambertin. Despite being more recently uprooted in favor of Chardonnay, Aligoté once boasted over 400 clones, categorized into two primary variations: Aligoté Verte, distinguished by its green hue and herbaceousness, and Aligoté Doré, radiantly golden in hue with an array of ripe citrus and fennel nuances. These variants were often co-planted, making their differentiation challenging, particularly because if Verte is managed at lower yields and fully ripened, it presents similarly to Doré. Nonetheless, this native variety adeptly conveys the quality of its terroir, is resistant to oidium and produces less sugar but more acidity relative to Chardonnay.
The allure of Aligoté continues to grow. In fact, Meursault AOP, which inspired California Chardonnay, currently awaits INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine) approval for a 10-year trial to potentially incorporate Aligoté in Meursault village or Bourgogne appellation wines, with no more than 10% added into the final blend, lowering alcohol but adding acidic verve and freshness.
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A vivid testament to the quality of wine this grape produces is the work of Les Aligoteurs–a collective of 68 members encompassing domaines and négociants throughout Burgundy. Formed in January of 2018
This Article was originally published on Wine Enthusiast
