db’s Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay picks his highlights from the Penfolds 2023 Collection, which was launched in August with tastings across Europe, Asia and North America and impressed with the depth of the portfolio and the considerable value for money of the more ‘entry level’ wines. Penfolds 2023 Collection was launched in August with a global, or at least inter-regional, circumnavigation of the tasting rooms of Europe, Asia and North America. I was lucky enough to be invited to the Paris launch, held in a tiny restaurant in a quiet back street not far the Champs Élysées with such illuminati of the Parisian fine wine circuit as Thierry Dessauve (of Bettane & Dessauve), and Denis Savarot and Olivier Poels (of La Revue du Vin de France). I tasted through the wines (a selection of which are noted below) and talked to Penfold’s inimitable chief wine-maker Peter Gago about the release. There are 25 wines in the European edition of Penfold’s new collection, 18 of which were presented in Paris (the restaurant, I surmise, was too small to accommodate them all!). Penfolds aficionados will already have noted that the collection includes a few more wines than were presented this time last year. That is because Bin 21 (a monocépage Grenache cuvee from the Barossa Valley) is a first release and the increasingly iconic Bin 707 and Quantum Bin 98 (both of which now commands price very close to Grange itself) return with the 2021 and 2019 vintages, respectively, having not
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