When we think of Pinot Noir, Burgundy, California, and Oregon immediately come to mind. But the finicky grape is grown throughout the wine world, and there is notable Pinot Noir produced in other areas of France, Italy, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, and New York’s Finger Lakes, among others.
Today, I’m focusing on Pinot Noir from France’s Loire Valley, which accounts for just a fraction of the region’s red wine output compared with Cabernet Franc, its signature red grape. But Loire Valley Pinot Noirs can be wonderful lighter examples of the variety, with lots of red fruit notes, earth, moderate alcohol, and refreshing acidity.
The top Loire Pinots are from Sancerre, one of the most famous appellations in the entire region that’s almost become synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc, the white variety that accounts for most of the production. So note that if you see a wine labeled Sancerre Rouge, it’s a Pinot Noir.
Beyond Sancerre, other appellations in the Centre-Loire, the subregion where most of the Pinot Noir is grown, include Menetou-Salon, Reuilly, and Coteaux du Giennois, where it’s sometimes blended with Gamay. Pinot Noir blends are also found in the wines of Cheverny to the northwest.
Tom Stevenson notes in his excellent reference “The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia” that the Central Loire was historically part of the Duchy of Burgundy, “which explains the presence of Pinot Noir vines.” He points out that after destruction caused by phylloxera, vineyards that were returned to production were mostly replanted with Sauvignon Blanc, which
